Original, the Sumptuary law of 1523, 'excesses in apparel'. (British Library) |
The assumption to the Throne by King Henry VIII heralded
the beginning of a new
and increasingly-prosperous century. By the mid-1500s many aspects of the Renaissance had begun to influence the customs and culture of the Henrician court, with palaces and homes built in lavish style, and with more of the Italianate motifs. England’s sea-power was rapidly assuming dominance; education for more of the population became available and the openness to foreign ideas and trade combined to enrich the national economy.
Yet until the Reformation’s consequences and the rising importance of the Parliament (both largely masterminded by Thomas Cromwell, as we shall see) could
begin to alter the fabric of the state it was a society dominated by the monarch, the church, and the nobility; England was in a time of transition from the medieval era.
and increasingly-prosperous century. By the mid-1500s many aspects of the Renaissance had begun to influence the customs and culture of the Henrician court, with palaces and homes built in lavish style, and with more of the Italianate motifs. England’s sea-power was rapidly assuming dominance; education for more of the population became available and the openness to foreign ideas and trade combined to enrich the national economy.
Yet until the Reformation’s consequences and the rising importance of the Parliament (both largely masterminded by Thomas Cromwell, as we shall see) could
begin to alter the fabric of the state it was a society dominated by the monarch, the church, and the nobility; England was in a time of transition from the medieval era.
We instantly know that she has become Queen because in sumptuary law the colour purple dictates that she is royalty. Claire Foy as Queen Anne Boleyn, 'Wolf Hall', BBC/PBS 2014 |
English society and Henry’s opulent Court was subject
to the Royal decree and in 1523 came the proclamation of the Statutes of
Apparel, c13, which were enacted as the Sumptuary Laws. The King was occupied
with all manner of diverse issues of state, such as building-up a formidable
navy, directing the course of internal conflicts with the Scots and the
ceaseless
diplomatic posturing with the Pope and Continental rivals and yet overseeing the Sumptuary laws was an important means of maintaining social cohesion within the realm.
These legal acts applied to all levels of society and in many ways including what was deemed appropriate to wear. The motives were both based on a form of class control and as a means of fiscal regulation. Penalties for breaches might include fines, suspension from the Court, imprisonment and in extreme violation even death (Holder).
diplomatic posturing with the Pope and Continental rivals and yet overseeing the Sumptuary laws was an important means of maintaining social cohesion within the realm.
These legal acts applied to all levels of society and in many ways including what was deemed appropriate to wear. The motives were both based on a form of class control and as a means of fiscal regulation. Penalties for breaches might include fines, suspension from the Court, imprisonment and in extreme violation even death (Holder).
The laws prevented the newly-rich merchant class dressing more impressively than the blue-bloods, and they stipulated that English fabrics were to be used as a means of boosting the economy by, for example, stipulating that only local wool might be used in various garments.
Only the monarch was entitled to wear cloths of gold and purple, and in Cromwell’s
initial engagement with Henry VIII Thomas was relegated to the fustian black cloth that is seen in Holbein’s portrait. Velvet of crimson or blue was prohibited to those below the position of the Knights of the Garter, and yet, ever-ambitious and largely a result of his experitise as a cloth merchant in Antwerp, Cromwell and his family were able to become somewhat more ‘creative’ and at times daring in their fashions. Holbein’s portrait was completed in 1533 when Thomas had been appointed Chancellor of the Exchequer so he sat wearing a fine stole of ermine, though of a russet colour.
At Austin Friars Thomas and his wife were attired in such pieces as silk and velvet doublets, a collection exceeding twenty pairs, and nightgowns adorned with fox fur.
Elizabeth Cromwell’s wardrobe included expensive jewellery such as necklaces, rings and a “coif of Venice gold” that illustrated the Italian sense of flair that Cromwell had acquired in Florence (Holder).
- Holder, N. ‘The Medieval
Friaries of London’, Ph.D. diss. University of London, 2011, quoted in Borman,
p.54. -
- Hooper, W. ‘The Tudor Sumptuary Laws’, The English Historical Review, Vol. 30, No. 119 (Jul., 1915), pp. 433-449. Published by the Oxford University Press.
http://www.jstor.org/stable/551532
- stills and costume production notes are from 'Wolf Hall', BBC TV/PBS, 2014.
- Hooper, W. ‘The Tudor Sumptuary Laws’, The English Historical Review, Vol. 30, No. 119 (Jul., 1915), pp. 433-449. Published by the Oxford University Press.
http://www.jstor.org/stable/551532
- stills and costume production notes are from 'Wolf Hall', BBC TV/PBS, 2014.